Domaine Belin: gourmet pigs

Astrid Barthomeuf was working on sheep farms when she spotted a piece of land to take over: "I found a former hunting estate with many oak trees. I set out to find the most suitable farm," she explains. A Google search led her to the Mangalitza, a Hungarian breed of pig that has been bred since the Middle Ages between classic Danubian pigs (Szalonta and Bakony) and Sumadija pigs of Mediterranean origin. One of Europe's oldest breeds, it was on the brink of extinction in the early 1990s. Only 160 head remained in Hungary. The rebound came in 1991, thanks to entrepreneur Juan Vicente Olmo, who saved the species. By 2010, the number of breeding animals had already passed the 7,000 mark. One of the Mangalitza's curiosities is the thick blond coat that covers its body. Only one other type of pig has such a long coat: the Lincolnshire Curly Coated, now extinct.

• Ardèche pigs

"I started with three animals, then gradually increased the herd until I now have 250," she explains. Having a herd of Mangalitza is the perfect counterpoint to intensive farming. Whereas it takes an average of six months to raise a pig in the industry, it takes two years in the open air to bring a Mangalitza to maturity, when it reaches 150 kg. The breed's distinctive feature is its high body fat content. Its name says it all: "mangalitza", or "mangalitsa", is Hungarian for "pigmeat with lots of fat". These pigs are also highly resistant to disease: "The breed lives three times longer than others. During this time, my animals develop a high proportion of fat, which can then be compared to marbling for beef," stresses Astrid Barthomeuf. The Mangalitza breed is even regularly compared to Iberian ham, thanks to its maturing potential and great organoleptic qualities. The breeder can also pride herself on producing Ardèche pigs from fork to fork: "My pigs are born, raised, slaughtered and processed in the Ardèche. The terrines and rillettes are made in a small workshop in the north of the department. I'm proud when I see my pigs on fine gourmet tables.

It's not the only strong argument: "We also need to talk about remuneration, which is an issue for the sector. Producing Mangalitza requires a higher initial investment, as we have to wait twenty-four months for the first animal to be slaughtered. Nevertheless, the quality of the taste means that we can sell the processed animal for €70 a kilo [compared with €13 on average, editor's note]. And you can make a living from your profession and your passion! This free-range breed has a bright future ahead of it in terms of sustainable, profitable agriculture for the sector.

• Exceptional meat

Mangalitza pork is reddish in color, highly veined, with white, creamy fat. It is rich in omega-3 and 6 fatty acids and natural antioxidants. According to studies conducted by the University of Debrecen, Hungary, this breed's omega-3 levels are two to three times higher than those of many varieties of fish. In Asian cuisine, fresh Mangalitza meat is much sought-after in dishes such as bulgogi (typical of Korean cuisine), or in recipes that are very popular in Japan, such as tonic.popular in Japan, such as tonkatsu, a breaded and fried pork chop, or sukiyaki, in which the meat is prepared nabemono style (steamed). Mangalitza ham also has many nutritional virtues. It is rich in high-quality, easily assimilated proteins. What's more, it contains large quantities of B vitamins and high levels of iron and zinc, which are essential for our bodies.

• 3 questions to Laëtitia Visse, chef at Marseille's La Femme du Boucher restaurant.

Gault&Millau: How long have you been working with Domaine Belin?

Laetitia Visse: For a year and a half. I discovered it when I ate at Florent Pietravalle's [chef of La Mirande, in Avignon, NDLR] He said to me: "You really need to work with this breeder. I get half-pigs and offal from the Domaine de Belin distributor."

G&M: Were you familiar with the Mangalitza breed?

L. V.: I'd already heard of it, and I knew it was of very high quality. They're very fatty pigs, and that's what I was looking for. As far as Domaine de Belin is concerned, you get the impression that the breeder takes the time to look after her animals, in the open air what's more, and that they are treated properly. The meat has a nutty taste, with hints of foie gras.

G&M: What recipes do you make with Mangaliza?

L. V.: I haven't created any original dishes, but I use the meat from Mangalitza half-pigs to make marbled hams, black pudding... I try to magnify the raw product. I'm also putting a "confit de côte découverte" on the menu, in which each customer is served with different parts of the pig. This also allows me to teach people about the anatomy of this animal.